For those of you who have been following our adventures, you may remember the bars we have visited during this trip. For starters there was the bar in in Chicken, festooned with hats, bras and panties. A tiny, but lively place in the middle of nowhere. Then there was the bar in Homer, the Salty Dog. All decked out in thousands of autographed one dollar bills. Filled to the brim with locals and tourists from all over the world. And who could forget the Red Dog Saloon in Juneau, with dead animals arrayed on it's walls. In between the honky tonk piano and the patrons it was hard to hear yourself think!

Skagway has the Red Onion Saloon. During the 1898 gold rush the Red Onion was a bordello. Alcohol was served on the first floor while the upper floor, with ten tiny rooms, satisfied more than a prospector's thirst.

Today the Red Onion is decorated with antique bedpans, urinals, photos and paintings of working girls from the era. The food was really good and the beer on tap was ICY cold. The most interesting thing about the place was the waitresses. Every time they set down a drink I expected a "wardrobe malfunction." Jim really enjoyed the place.

The day we left Skagway there were four cruise ships in port. They had disgorged 10,000 tourists onto the town like a plague of locust. Each person trying to make the most of their six hour visit. Some wanted to shop till they dropped; others wanted to kayak in pristine alpine lakes; the young wanted to be hauled into the mountains to bicycle  downhill (11.5% grade) back to town; still others took helicopter rides

over glaciers; or rented jeeps and went 4 wheeling in the hills. It was absolutely crazy so we beat feet out of town.